PART III - PERIODIC INSPECTION
	 

    It is recommended that the following routine inspection be performed.  
Regular inspections as outlined below will result in the most satisfactory 
engine performance.      

    An engine that has been properly cared for will stand up longer between
complete overhauls and the total life of the engine will be considerably 
prolonged.      

SECTION 1 - DAILY INSPECTION 

A. Lubricate valve stems and guides daily unless a top cylinder lubricant 
   is used in the gasoline.  For use of a top cylinder lubricant see
   Section 6, Part II - OPERATION.      

B. Check valve tappet clearance while engine is cold.  It should be -005" 
   on the E-113, E-113A, E-113B, and E-113C engines and .010" on the
   E-107A engine for both intake and exhaust valves.  This should be done 
   accurately as any larger clearance may result in a broken valve or 
   rocker box and too small a clearance will result in the valve being held 
   open while the engine is being warmed up.  Be sure that the valve is 
   fully closed before checking the clearance.      

A. Grease rocker arms by means of an Alemite gun.  Use the correct grade
   of grease as specified in Section 4, Part II - OPERATION.      

B. Remove rocker arm covers and grease push rod ball ends at the rocker arms.  
   See that the small grease 	holes are open to the push rod sockets.      

C. Grease the rocker arm rollers after checking each roller for flat spots.      

D. Clean out the gas collator (gas strainer).  When replacing the glass bowl
   be sure to get all of the air out of the gas line by initially fastening
   the glass bowl loosely so that when the gas is turned on, it will leak out.
   The gasoline will force all of the air out through the gascolator and,
   just as the gasoline begins to over-flow, tighten the bowl so as to stop
   the gasoline leak.      

E. The spark plug insulation should be wiped off as dirt and soot on the 
   outside of the plugs can cause a short circuit.  The ignition cable 
   terminal should be a tight fit on the spark plug.      

F. Make an external inspection for loose bolts, nuts, oil and gas connections.      

G. Clean oil filter when used by turning handle two complete turns.      

H. Clean out the carburetor air intake screen.  It should be washed in 
   gasoline and then lightly oiled.      

A. Drain the engine oil and replace with the grade of oil specified in Section
   2, Part II - OPERATION.  We strongly recommend that the old oil be
   strained through a 20 mesh or finer screen so that if any metallic
   particles are found in the screen they will serve as a warning that 
   something needs to be repaired inside of the engine which should be 
   investigated immediately.      

B. The sump cover should be removed after the oil has been drained and
   the interior of the oil reservoir, including the oil strainer, cleaned.
   The oil filter when used should be drained and cleaned.      

C. Oil all throttle and spark controls and be sure that they move through
   their full range.      

D. Check the valve guides for wear by shaking the valve stems.  If the guide
   is worn very badly, it should be replaced as a worn guide will then lean
   the gasoline mixture to the cylinder and so in the cylinder head 
   temperature.  This increase in temperature may cause the cylinder head to
   crack or an exhaust valve to break.  The valve spring should also be 
   inspected as occasionally they will break and not be noticed, especially
   the small inner spring.  At the same time, try the rocker arms for 
   looseness in the bearings.      

E. Check and clean spark plugs.  The gap should be approximately .018" 
   for the AERONCA engine.  Never bend the center electrode when adjusting
   the gap.  "See remarks in Sec.  3-P, Part V - COMPLETE OVERHAUL."      

F. Check all high tension cables and terminals.  If either terminal is
   corroded, the cable assembly should be replaced.  It is also important
   that the insulation on the cables be in good condition.      

G. Check magneto breaker points.  They should be cleaned, free from oil 
   and the gap should be .015".  Use the Bosch feeler gauge which is 
   furnished with each engine form making this adjustment.  See Section 3-P,
   Part V - COMPLETE OVERHAUL.      

SECTION 4 - ONE HUNDRED HOUR INSPECTION      

A. Remove the propeller hub assembly and inspect the crankshaft taper for 
   galling.  If a red dust is found on the taper bearing surface, it indicates
   that the hub is not fitting properly and should be "relapped" to the
   crankshaft at once.  The hub and crankshaft should be cleaned with 
   gasoline and a slight amount of Prussian bluing applied to the taper 
   section after the key has been removed.  The propeller hub should be 
   mounted on the crankshaft, revolved, and then removed.  The bluing will 
   be rubbed from the high spots by this procedure.  For "relapping" the hub,
   see instructions in Section 4-E, Part V - COMPLETE OVERHAUL.      

B. Check the ignition timing and inspect the magneto as given in 
   Section 3-P, Part V - COMPLETE OVERHAUL.      

C. Remove and clean the carburetor.  Dirt in the carburetor may be the 
   cause of the engine "revving" down on the take-off.  The carburetor 
   should be taken apart and cleaned as indicated in Section 3-Q, Part V - 
   COMPLETE OVERHAUL.  It is best to have all of this work done by an 
   experienced carburetor man, as occasionally new parts are needed, such 
   as vacuum pumps, butterfly valves, etc.  It is very important to remember
   that in cleaning the carburetor jets they should be blown out with air 
   and should never be cleaned with wires as they can be damaged very easily.      

D. Clean out all gas lines, strainers and the tank.  It is desirable to 
   remove the gas shut-off cock from the gas tank and clean the small 
   finger strainer which is attached to it.  The gas tank should be washed 
   out with clean gasoline so as to remove any sediment that may have 
   formed in the tank.      

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